Return to the BUILD
“Now you have the main chassis, you’ll start to fix components to it, including the steps and wheel arches supplied in this stage.“
NOTE: The parts for this pack should arrive in a separate box to the rest of the parts of Pack 2.
Materials: The Main Chassis is metal, but everything else in this stage is plastic.
NOTE: Save any spare screws left over at the end of each stage of this build. They may be needed in later stages!
Main Chassis, Door Steps & Wheel Arches
Retrieve the following parts leftover from Stage 11 as we will need them in these first few steps:
- Chassis Front Part A
- Chassis Front Part B
- Exhaust Pipe
NOTE: I slightly changed the order of how I installed these parts on my model to make this stage easier to follow.
NOTE: The end of the Main Chassis with the single wheel arches is the front. The end with the dual wheel arches is the rear:
Chassis Front Part B
Turn the Main Chassis upside down. Then, fit the post and peg of the Chassis Front Part B into the matching holes at the front end of the Main Chassis, as shown:
Secure the Chassis Front Part B to the Main Chassis from the other side with one (1) Type H screw:
Chassis Front Part A
Fit the post and peg of the Chassis Front Part A into the matching center holes behind the front wheel arches of the Main Chassis, as shown.
I believe this part is meant to replicate the transmission of our model. The Main Chassis has the shape of an engine oil pan and bell housing just forward of it. Therefore, just for fun I decided to highlight the bolts with my Metallic Silver Sharpie:
Secure the Chassis Front Part A to the Main Chassis from the other side with one (1) Type H screw:
Turn your Main Chassis back upright. Then, super glue the Outrigger Pads Right to this location under the right rear of the Main Chassis. The pegs of the Outrigger Pads are different sizes so this can be located correctly.
TIP: To help determine which Outrigger Pad is which, note these small square tab details poking out of the Outrigger Pad slots. When mounted to the correct side, these tabs should be closer to the rear of the Main Chassis, as shown:
When we apply glue to the top of these parts, note that they stick out from the Main Chassis once mounted so keep the glue near the pegs:
In the same way, super glue the Outrigger Pads Left to the same location on the opposite side (left rear) of the Main Chassis:
Rear Cab Door Steps
Next, super glue the Rear Cab Door Step Right to this location behind the front right wheel arch of the Main Chassis. Again, the pegs of this part are different sizes so it can be located correctly.
NOTE: The two Rear Cab Door Steps are larger than the two Front Cab Door Steps, so make sure to use the correct parts here. The peg spacing is also different between the rear and front steps to help prevent mounting the parts incorrectly.
Like the Outrigger Pads, these two Rear Cab Door Steps are different. When mounted correctly, these rear steps should angle out and away from the Main Chassis, as shown:
Repeat this process to super glue the Rear Cab Door Step Left to the same location on the opposite (left) side of the Main Chassis:
Front Cab Door Steps
Finally, super glue the Front Cab Door Step Right to this location forward of the front right wheel arch of the Main Chassis. Again, the pegs of this part are different sizes so it can be located correctly.
And like the previous parts, these two Front Cab Door Steps are also different. When mounted correctly, these steps should angle out and away from the Main Chassis, as shown:
Repeat this process to super glue the Front Cab Door Step Left to the same location on the opposite (left) side of the Main Chassis:
Rear Wheel Arches
Test fit one of the Rear Wheel Arches over the right rear dual wheel openings of the Main Chassis.
The four holes of the Rear Wheel Arch should fit flush down onto the four matching pegs of the Main Chassis, as shown. As far as I can tell, both Rear Wheel Arch parts are exactly the same so either one can be used here:
When satisfied with the fitment of the Rear Wheel Arch, apply some super glue along this inside ‘flanges’ and secure the arch down into place:
Repeat this process on the opposite (left) side of the Main Chassis with the other Rear Wheel Arch:
Front Wheel Arch Surrounds
Test fit the Front Wheel Arch Surround Right over the right front wheel opening of the Main Chassis.
NOTE: The two Front Wheel Arch Surrounds are not the same. The ‘front’ end of each surround has the corner with the larger radius (curve):
There are five locating pins that align this Front Wheel Arch Surround Right to the Main Chassis:
When happy with the fitment, apply some super glue along this inside ‘flange’ of the wheel arch and secure the surround into place:
Be sure that this Front Wheel Arch Surround is fully pressed down onto all five locating pins:
Repeat this process on the opposite (left) side of the Main Chassis with the Front Wheel Arch Surround Left:
Mounting the Rear Axle
Retrieve your Rear Axle assembly from Stage 06.
If you did not install the Springs onto these four posts back in that stage, make sure to slide them onto these four posts first:
Fit this entire Rear Axle assembly to the bottom of the Main Chassis (with the Springs facing the Chassis):
As we install the Rear Axle, make sure to slide the free end of the Driveshaft into this rounded cutout at the back of Chassis Front Part A (Transmission):
And, as you are fitting this Driveshaft, note how the peg on the post along the Driveshaft that needs to fit up into this matching hole of the Main Chassis. If your post is facing the wrong way, simply unmount the Driveshaft from the Rear Axle and flip it around:
Then, fit the four tall Rear Axle posts (with the Springs on them) up through the matching holes on the underside of the Main Chassis between the dual rear wheel arches, as shown:
Secure the Rear Axle to the Main Chassis with ten (10) Type L screws:
Main Chassis Details
Press the two pegs of the Crossmember into the matching holes at this location on the underside of the Main Chassis.
The two pegs of the Crossmember are different sizes so it will only fit flush when correctly installed, as shown:
I have always liked the inside of my vehicle exhausts to be black, so I painted the inside of the tip of my Exhaust Pipe with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black paint:
Fit the post and two pegs of the Exhaust Pipe into the matching holes at this location on the underside of the Main Chassis.
Secure the Exhaust Pipe into place from the other side with one (1) Type H screw.
It is odd that we are using a coarse-threaded screw to secure metal. These are typically used into plastic. Therefore, I recommend to try using 3-in-One Oil on the tip of this screw before driving it in:
Fit the peg and post of the Cylinder into the matching holes at this location on the underside of the Main Chassis:
You may notice that I used my Metallic Silver Sharpie again here on the bolt heads for all of these cylinders:
Secure the Cylinder into place from the other side with one (1) Type C screw:
Press the D-shaped pin of the Connector into this matching hole in the side of the Cylinder, as shown:
Mounting the Front Axle
Retrieve your Front Axle assembly from Stage 10. Press the two rods of the Front Axle through these holes of the Main Chassis.
Before fitting this Front Axle, make sure your Track Rod is centered so it can be passed down through this slot of the Main Chassis, as shown:
When placing the Front Axle, the Track Rod should be facing towards the rear of the Main Chassis:
These four pegs of the Front Axle should then fit down into these matching holes of the Main Chassis:
At the same time, both Springs should be fitted down inside these posts of the Main Chassis, as shown:
While pushing the Front Axle down towards the Main Chassis, secure the Front Axle into place with the two (2) L screws from Stage 10:
With the Front Axle now mounted, you should be able to steer the Front Wheel by sliding the long post of the Track Bar from side to side:
Wow, there was a ton to do in this stage! We have made some great progress on building up the Main Chassis *and* we have installed a bunch of loose parts from previous stages, which I always appreciate. With this chassis in hand, we can also get an idea of how big our finished FDNY Tower Ladder 9 model will be once completed. Save the unused Type J screws for use in a later stage.
Stage 13 – Central Console, Speaker/Cover, Handles, Axe, Cab Divider Glass, Central Console Storage, Engineer’s Switch Panel