Return to the BUILD
“In stage 12, you’ll continue to work on the front bumper, adding the bell, tow hooks and front right stabilizer.“
Materials: The Bell and the Front Right Stabilizer are metal, but the remaining non-electrical parts are plastic.
NOTE: Save any spare screws left over at the end of each stage of this build. They may be needed in later stages!
Components for the Front Bumper & Front Right Stabilizer
Retrieve your Front Bumper assembly from Stage 04. Firmly press the two posts of the Front Bumper Plating into these matching holes along the top of the Front Bumper, as shown.
There is a locating pin that will only allow this Front Bumper Plating to fit flush when inserted the correct way around:
I used a little super glue on the bottom side of the plating here to keep this part nice and flat:
Firmly push the two lower pegs of the Bell Support into these matching holes in the center of the Front Bumper Plating:
While test fitting these parts, I found two things – Firstly, mounting the Bell Support first is easier, then I mounted the Bell. Secondly, I used my round needle file to enlarge the holes slightly so this Bell Support would sit flush:
Firmly push the Bell down onto the thick single peg of the Bell Support (clapper), as shown.
Be gentle here as the Bell Support is plastic:
Firmly push the tabs of the two Tow Hooks into these matching slots on top of the Front Bumper Plating.
These slide in quite firmly, so no glue is needed:
Slide the tab of the Front Right Stabilizer through this slot on the right rear side of the Front Bumper, as shown:
Fit the hole at the end of the Front Right Stabilizer tab over this pin, aligning the screw hole at the same time:
Secure the Front Right Stabilizer to the Front Bumper with one (1) Type J screw, as shown.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Operating the Stabilizers
The Stabilizer assemblies for our model are pre-built and can be operated. To extend the stabilizer, gently press on this small grey button and the jack pad should ‘pop’ down into position:
To retract the stabilizer, gently push the jack pad up into the body. It is spring loaded, but will be captured by an internal catch mechanism:
I really enjoy this little Bell detail. On the fire apparatus I used to ride, these bells were rung by pulling on a cord… showing my age for sure! I am sure fire trucks now have electric bell clappers. As for the Stabilizers, I am happy to see that they actually work and can be positioned when we display the final model. Save the unused Bumper Mirror and the remaining Type J screw for use in a later stage.
Fun Fact: On the real Seagraves truck, the front of the cab tilts forward to access the engine compartment. To get these Stabilizers out of the way, there are thick locking pins that can be removed and the stabilizers tilted off to the sides of the truck!
Stage 12B – Main Chassis, Outrigger Pads, Front/Rear Cab Door Steps, Rear Wheel Arches, Front Wheel Arch Surrounds